Cape Verde: A Southern Gem for European Sunseekers

Cape Verde was a lovely discovery — it reminded us of what Puerto Rico or Mexico are for North Americans: a warm, beachy escape. But here, it's Europe’s turn to head south. With direct flights from Portugal, Italy, and France, etc. it's easy to see why this archipelago is a rising favorite.

We flew from Montreal to Ponta Delgada with SATA Airlines, connecting onward to Praia. The check-in process was a bit confusing — the app showed we were checked in, but we hadn't received tickets. After some digging, we found out SATA doesn’t issue tickets in advance for US and Canadian passengers. Luckily, check-in at the airport was smooth. It was actually nice to have both flights on one ticket. At the lounge, they had to manually enter our info since the boarding pass wouldn’t scan — likely due to the multi-leg ticket or SATA’s system.

Landing in Praia, Santiago Island

Our usual eSIM didn’t work in Cape Verde. My husband had preloaded another option, which took a bit of fiddling, but eventually worked. We grabbed a taxi (20 euros for 10 minutes) — there’s no meter, so negotiate or confirm before. We were lucky that our hotel room was ready at noon, which allowed us to relax by the pool after a long journey. We stayed up until 10 p.m. trying traditional Cape Verdean food — and loved it.

The next day we found out that our flight with Cabo Verde Airlines had moved up from 1 p.m. to 8 a.m.! Classic island time. It made me glad we kept the day low-key — just working out, trying more food, and arranging our early transfer. The hotel recommended arriving 1.5 hours before the flight, but mentioned it would have been 3 hours if the flight had been at night — flights can change last minute.

That night, we considered going out to a nearby restaurant, but staff recommended taking a taxi even though it wasn’t far. That matched what we’d read — Praia is best avoided after dark. So, we stayed in and ate at the hotel again. Later, our driver confirmed that as tourists (and white), we stood out in Praia — it’s a busy city with few tourists, so you can feel like a target. This wasn’t a concern elsewhere on the islands.

Island Hopping to Sal

We booked our early transfer (15 euros with the hotel — cheaper and better than the airport taxi) and had a peaceful morning. There was no line at check-in or security. Bags were being checked manually, and mine got flagged — maybe because of my Insta360? The agent was very thorough, but friendly.

At Praia airport’s domestic terminal, there are just two gates. Boarding was listed at 7 a.m., but the crew showed up at 7:15 and boarding began at 7:30. We even got an airline email at 7:32 saying boarding was at 7 — again, island time. Before takeoff, they sprayed the cabin with something from the World Health Organization (Dengue protocol). It was a smooth 35-minute flight.

Once in Sal, we grabbed a taxi to Santa Maria for 20 euros (fixed price). The hotel transfer would have been 45 euros — not worth it. The ride was along a single road with a large construction project and new roundabouts being added.

First Impressions of Sal

Our hotel had security guards, like in Praia, which is also common in Mexico and Bali. But Sal felt safer overall. Sal only has around 40,000 people, while Santiago (where Praia is) has over 300,000. Sal lives from tourism, that helped put it in perspective.

The hotel felt like an all-inclusive, with beautiful sand and lots of wind — great for kite surfing. Still, it was manageable enough for beach volleyball and bike rides.

Exploring with an ATV Tour

We booked the No Limits 4-hour ATV tour nearby and walked over from the Hilton. After a safety overview and map briefing, we jumped in our ride, #56. I brought two water bottles, my Insta360, and a small hiking backpack with a towel, water shoes for Shark Bay, an underwater case, and a protein bar. There were both English- and Italian-speaking groups. At each stop, the guides shared interesting tidbits, and we captured great photos and videos.

Pedra de Lume Salt Crater - Terra Boa and the 'Mirage'

My husband especially loved the last stretch of bumpy dune riding. We were back by 2 p.m., famished but thrilled. If you're not into ATVs, there are other options — but you have to explore. Sal is more than just a beach.

Baby Lemon Sharks

Biking to the Salt Pans

One afternoon, we borrowed hotel bikes and rode to the Salinas of Santa Maria — a 15-minute trip. Some people walked there, but biking gave us more time to explore. We saw locals living nearby, the unique salt flats, and even a little electric vehicle called Spinach giving history tours. Later, we wandered through Santa Maria’s pedestrian street and marina, looping back to the hotel along the pier road. A beautiful two-hour outing — but we should have worn sunscreen! I got some serious tan lines.

Leaving Sal

We had a domestic flight at 8 p.m., and our taxi cost 25 euros, possibly because it was at night. The plane was larger — it came from Lisbon, stopped in Praia, and was heading back to Lisbon. The airport was packed. After a quick scan, we waited in a cramped area, squeezing onto a bench.

Don't forget your jacket - lots of wind

Final Night in Praia

Our driver met us again and brought us to another hotel where we arrived at 10 p.m. and headed straight to bed. We had chosen this hotel because the owner is a chef, and breakfast was included. Everything was 90% local and homemade, and the coffee from Fogo Island was hands-down the best coffee of the trip. We were sad to leave so soon.

Before the airport, our driver gave us a mini-tour of the Plateau district with a bit of history, then dropped us off at the international terminal. After passport control, we waited for our flight home.

Si ka badu, ka ta biradu -If you don't leave, you can't come back -Cape Verdean poet Eugénio Tavares

Weather in Cape Verde (May)

Cape Verde in May was a mix of sunshine and sea breeze:

• Daytime temperatures: 24–26°C

• Nighttime: 20–22°C – Some evenings were chilly, and I was glad to have packed a light jacket.

• Sea temperature: 23.8°C – warm enough for a refreshing swim

• Rainfall: Minimal, around 1 mm over 1–3 days

• Sunshine: Around 9 hours daily. The beachside restaurant had outdoor heaters, making dining al fresco comfortable even after sunset.

  
  
  
  

Did You Know?

• Cape Verde is a democratic country

• 💶 The Euro is widely accepted, even though the official currency is the Cape Verdean Escudo (CVE)

• 🏝️ Cape Verde is an archipelago of 10 islands

• 🌍 It's located off the coast of West Africa, but has strong European ties, especially with Portugal

• 🧳 Many visitors come from Europe – especially France, Italy, and Portugal – due to direct flights

I was over the moon to chow down on Cachupa, Cape Verde's national dish, like it was my daily vitamin!