🌿 Azores : Misty Skies, Volcano Pools & Whales

From Sunshine to Jeans

Leaving Cape Verde was hard. Saying goodbye to endless sunshine, soft dresses, and the warmth that seeped into your soul wasn’t easy. When we landed in São Miguel, in the Azores, the contrast was stark — the weather was moody, grey, and honestly, depressing. I swapped my skirts for jeans, jackets, and leggings, and barely saw the sun those first days. It felt like the trip had taken a wrong turn.

Cape Verde Ponte Delgada

But, just like the Azorean weather, our mood began to shift. A few bursts of sunshine appeared. We settled in. The mist lifted — literally and figuratively. And then, São Miguel revealed its magic.

The island reminded us of so many places we love: it had that lush, green Hawaii vibe… flashes of Cape Breton's rugged beauty in Nova Scotia… and a richness in nature similar to Puerto Rico. Each day brought a new twist, and slowly, we saw why people are drawn to this little archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic.

🧐 Did you know?

The Azores are often blanketed in mist and clouds, especially in São Miguel. It's completely normal — locals even expect it. The island's microclimates mean that while one side of the island might be gloomy, just 30 minutes away it could be sunny and warm. That’s why SpotAzores.com is a game-changer — you can check live webcams across the island and radar maps before you commit to a hike or viewpoint. Trust us, it saved us from many fogged-out views.

Cha Gorreana Tea Plantation 🍃

On our first misty drive, we decided to stop at Cha Gorreana, the oldest tea plantation in Europe (since 1883!). Free tour, beautiful property, and surprisingly interesting — I had no idea what a tea plant looked like until then. We didn’t do the full hike around the plantation but took a short scenic 30-minute loop. Totally worth it for the views alone.

Boca do Inferno (Sete Cidades Area)

We aimed to do the Boca do Inferno trail (a popular 50-minute loop with killer views of Sete Cidades), but I didn’t quite map it right at first and we ended up driving the winding roads down to Sete Cidades instead. Gorgeous drive, by the way — even more so when you can stop at the viewpoints on your way back up.

Eventually, we found the right parking lot and started the trail. We got a bit of sunshine at first and were hopeful… but by the time we reached the viewpoint, we were surrounded by mist. Couldn’t see a thing! It was eerily beautiful, though. If you can, try again — but we didn’t.

Termas da Ferraria – Volcanic Dip

After hiking, we made our way to Termas da Ferraria, a natural thermal ocean pool surrounded by volcanic rocks. There's a proper change room and bathrooms, which is nice if you want to go in. I climbed down the ladder into the pool — it was warmer near the rocks, though the high tide brought in colder ocean water. A man was floating in the rocks, ducking under the waves as they came in. Not for me, but fun to watch!

People can be dramatic, but if you're smart, watch the waves, and use the rope, it’s just a refreshing dip with a volcanic twist.

Lagoa das Furnas & the Magical Waterfall

Furnas was kind of a spontaneous trip for us. We started with the Miradouro da Lagoa das Furnas, walked near the chapel, and took in the peaceful lake vibes. Then we discovered Mata Jardim José do Canto, a botanical garden that charges €5 per person. It was one of the most unexpectedly beautiful walks — flowers, cows, a massive sequoia, and a waterfall that felt straight out of a fairy tale. The hike there and back took about an hour and was super easy.

Caldeiras das Furnas – Boiling Earth

On the other side of the lake is Caldeiras das Furnas, full of steaming springs and bubbling mud. This is where they cook the famous Cozido das Furnas — a traditional stew slow-cooked in the volcanic ground. We didn’t try it, but we did see a man digging it out from the steaming earth. It was fun to witness, even without the food.

We didn’t go to Parque Grená, but I read it’s considered one of the most untouched nature parks in the Azores. One for next time.

Nordeste – Warning Signs and Rainbows

We chased the sun to the east coast and ended up in Nordeste. There’s a lighthouse with crazy warning signs — one said 20% pitch, another just said “WARNING.” We parked at the top, and I almost bailed on walking down, but I’m so glad I didn’t. Light rain turned into a full rainbow moment. The lighthouse was under construction, but still beautiful, and there’s a village tucked below with postcard views.

Nordeste isn’t essential unless you have time to explore, but it felt like a small win — one of those "glad we didn’t skip it" moments.

Whale Watching with Terra Azul 🐋

We did our tour with Terra Azul (they leave from Vila Franca do Campo, whereas Futurismo leaves from Ponta Delgada). We chose Terra Azul because they offered a route around the islet near the city afterward — a volcanic ring known as the Princess Ring.

You never know what you’ll see out there, but we got lucky:

• Risso’s dolphins – hard to capture on camera but cool in person

• Three sperm whales – including one that showed us its tail before diving

• Common dolphins – playful and jumping near the boat

  
  
  
  

A fun tour and a beautiful way to wrap up our trip.

Caldeira Velha – Thermal Pools (Sort of)

We didn’t reserve in advance, so when we showed up at Caldeira Velha around 5pm, it was full. You can still pay €3 to walk around, but we were told to book online for the full thermal experience if we wanted to return: Caldeira Velha tickets

We skipped it and drove on to check out the scenic viewpoints nearby:

• Miradouro Bela Vista

• Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo

• Miradouro da Barrosa

Airport Tips ✈️

Ponta Delgada Airport is small and efficient. Coming in from Cape Verde was interesting — instead of entering through the terminal, we were bussed to the side of the airport and had to go through extra screening. A woman asked specifically if we were coming from Cape Verde and if we had anything to declare. Not sure if that’s a regular thing or just that day.

Returning the rental car was easy — just drop off the paper, hand it in inside. Check-in and security were fast. Passport control, however, was a bit chaotic since three international flights (New York, Boston, Montreal) were leaving around the same time. Give yourself a solid 30 minutes to get through that line.

Before you decide to go to the Azores, here's a few key Portuguese phrases we picked up along the way:

• Olá – Hello

• Bom dia – Good morning

• Por favor – Please

• Obrigado / Obrigada – Thank you (men say “obrigado,” women say “obrigada”)

Final Thoughts

Although the weather cast a moody tone over the start of the trip, we did eventually get to explore São Miguel — and we genuinely loved it. The island surprised us with its raw beauty, unexpected moments, and mix of landscapes that felt both familiar and unique.

We especially loved our whale watching tour — definitely a highlight. We thought of scuba diving, but in the end, it didn’t happen. Maybe next time.

That said, I’m not sure I’d return to São Miguel specifically. I feel like we got a good sense of the island — even though we missed out on the big Santo Cristo celebration (we caught glimpses of the flowers and parades starting to appear). We didn’t do much hiking either; when you can’t count on that big “wow” view at the end because of the mist, it’s just less enticing for us.

If we were to come back to the Azores, I’d love to explore another island. I’ve heard the food can be even better and the vibe is a little different — quieter, less visited. That kind of low-key charm sounds right up our alley.

Still, this trip gave me something unexpected: I learned the basics of driving manual, thanks to my very patient (and wonderful) teacher — my husband. That alone made it memorable.

The Azores are undeniably special. You just have to be okay with chasing sunshine, embracing the mist, and letting the island reveal itself on its own time.