Road Trip from Perth to Exmouth – Western Australia’s Remote Reef Adventure

When we decided to road trip from Perth to Exmouth, we knew it was going to be long... but we didn’t realize it would feel like a real outback adventure.

Day 1: Perth to Geraldton – Watch Out for Kangaroos

Navigating the dark and remote stretches of Indian Ocean Drive, where cell reception is unreliable and driving at night is risky.

We left Perth in the late afternoon and drove about 4.5 hours to Geraldton. That meant a good portion of the drive was in the dark — and in Western Australia, driving after sunset means scanning not for deer like we do back home in Canada, but for kangaroos.

We saw a few dead ones on the road (yikes), and one massive adult stared right at us — unsettling and majestic all at once. At one point, we were following a road train — those massive, heavy-duty trucks that Western Australia is known for. It had intense high beams, and while we could have passed, we weren’t quite in the mood for that kind of adrenaline rush. We made it safely to our Airbnb in Geraldton and called it a night.

Day 2: The Long Haul to Exmouth

The next day was an 8.5-hour drive up to Exmouth. We stopped briefly to fuel up and eat lunch in the car — determined not to drive after dark again. The scenery was surprisingly repetitive: the road doesn’t hug the coastline, and the landscape barely changes. Flat, dry, and straight for hours. Still, we were excited to finally reach Exmouth, a small, remote town where everything books up fast.

We stayed 4 nights in an Airbnb — one of the only places still available two to three weeks before our trip. Unfortunately, Whale Shark tours were sold out months in advance, so no luck there. There might have been a boat you could hop on as a passenger (no swimming) leaving from Coral Bay, but that’s also a distance from Exmouth and didn’t fit into our schedule.

Luckily, we had packed a cooler with frozen meals — chicken, steak, and homemade lasagna — so we didn’t need to worry about shopping or cooking too much. It was such a win, especially since the next day we had a full day of scuba diving and I’m always completely wiped after.

Diving Ningaloo Reef – Facing Our Fears Underwater

We had booked two days of diving with Dive Ningaloo, even though we only had six dives under our belts and were still pretty nervous.

Thankfully, the dive shop was just five minutes from our Airbnb. We jumped into their van, and once on board the boat, everything was ready for us. Great setup, awesome crew, and even a BBQ lunch onboard.

Over the two days, we spotted white-tip reef sharks, a porcupine ray, turtles, and even watched a humpback whale breaching in the distance. Two dolphins swam close to the boat, too. While the reef isn't in the best condition anymore, the marine life still made it worthwhile. And more importantly, we grew way more confident underwater and finally felt like we belonged there.

An unexpected local fact? A doctor diving with us told us Exmouth has a high number of kidney stone cases due to the water. Locals add bright red or orange sugary syrup to mask the taste. We came prepared and brought gallons of water from Costco, so we didn’t try the sugar syrup... and we’re okay with that.

Pro tip: Bring or buy bottled water — unless you're curious about the neon sugar water.

Cape Range National Park – Hiking & Snorkeling Heaven

The following day, we explored Cape Range National Park. It’s about an hour from town. Along the way, we passed Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, which we heard is amazing for both sunrise and sunset. At the park gate, we were ushered into the Milyering Discovery Centre where we bought a 2-week National Parks pass for $50 AUD — well worth it.

We hiked the Mandu Mandu Gorge, based on a recommendation from one of our dive instructors. It’s a one-hour loop with scenic views, a bit of scrambling, and some peaceful isolation. Thankfully, there was cloud cover at the start, because once the sun came out, we were very ready to get back to the car.

Then came our reward: Turquoise Bay.

This is where the famous drift snorkel happens. We weren’t sure if we could do it without fins or wetsuits, but with just water shoes, we gave it a go. The current was manageable, as long as we kept our eyes on the exit point. We swam it twice — it was absolutely worth it. The water wasn’t too cold, and the reef, while not vibrant everywhere, still offered a stunning underwater experience. We capped the day with a beautiful sunset before cautiously making the drive back in the dark.

Oyster Stacks – One Last Magical Snorkel

On our last morning, we debated heading to Oyster Stacks, the second famous snorkeling site in the park. The catch? It’s tide-dependent and a good hour’s drive away, and we had a 5-hour drive ahead to Carnarvon afterward.

We went anyway — and it was the right call.

By the time we arrived, the sun was shining. Another snorkeler mentioned that the drift here runs opposite to Turquoise Bay, and the water was warm. We jumped in (again just with water shoes) and snorkeled it twice.

This time, the marine life was even more exciting: a black-tip reef shark, a blue-spotted ribbontail ray, and a turtle hiding under coral made appearances. It was the perfect ending to our Exmouth experience.

We left a bit sad for the reef — the coral clearly has suffered — but grateful for what we saw and hopeful that with care and time, it will recover and thrive again.

If You’re Planning a Trip to Exmouth...

• Book early — Accommodations and tours (especially whale sharks) sell out months in advance.

• Bring a cooler with frozen meals — Saves time, money, and effort.

• Bring or buy bottled water — Unless you want to try the local sugar syrup...

• Avoid driving at night — Kangaroos and poor lighting make it risky.

• Check the tides — For snorkeling at places like Oyster Stacks, timing is everything.