Campania to Lazio: A Journey Through History, Flavor, and Beauty
- adriana hamelin
- Jan 27, 2025
- 5 min read
Updated: Feb 5, 2025
Our journey through Italy, starting in Campania and ending in Lazio, was nothing short of magical. From archaeological wonders to delicious cheeses and breathtaking views, this trip had it all.
Paestum: A Journey Through Time - 2 nights
Our first stop was the Parco Archeologico di Paestum, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We experienced it all: sun, rain, and even a rainbow! The park itself is expansive, and if you want to see and read everything, prepare for a lot of walking. There’s no set path to follow, which makes wandering around the ruins even more fun. After walking through history, we treated ourselves to gelato before heading to the museum. The museum was fascinating, but by the end, our backs were stiff from all the walking. Between the park and the museum, we spent about 3–4 hours here, and it was worth every minute. Paestum is a UNESCO World Heritage site for a reason—its ancient temples are absolutely breathtaking.
Campania is famous for its mozzarella di bufala, and we made sure to enjoy plenty throughout our time in Italy. We had hoped to join a tour at a buffalo farm, but since it was low season and just the two of us, it wasn’t wasn’t cost-effective. Instead, I read that you could visit Barlotti, see the buffalos, enjoy a meal at their restaurant, and buy cheese. After Paestum, we went there, but the restaurant was closed. However, we did buy some mozzarella and ricotta di bufala, which were both incredible.
The next morning, we went back to try the restaurant, and wow—it was a highlight of our trip. If you ever go, I highly recommend ordering the Formaggio Granfiorito alla piastra con rucola e pomodorino. Imagine thick, melted raclette cheese but in bufala form—it was heavenly! We also had mozzarella, some grilled vegetables, and chocolate bufala ice cream.
The Amalfi Coast: A Refreshing Return - 2 nights
After Paestum, we drove along the stunning Amalfi Coast. It had been 12 years since our last visit, and this time we passed through Salerno, Amalfi, Positano, and ended in Sorrento. Though the weather wasn’t ideal for scenic stops, we managed to grab a few photos along the way. The winding roads of the coast can be tricky, and we didn’t want to risk driving at night.
The Hilton Sorrento was a great base for two nights. They have an EV charging station, an executive lounge, and an amazing breakfast. Last time, we stayed in Massa Lubrense, so it was nice to experience Sorrento this time around. The town was beautifully decorated for Christmas, and the light show with the tree at 5 PM was magical. We walked down to Marina Grande, a charming fishing village. It wasn’t very busy in mid-December, and most restaurants were closed, but it was still worth the visit. Pro tip: park your car at the top and walk down, or take the bus—it’s not easy to navigate the tight roads or find parking at the bottom.
Sorrento was a delightful mix of festive cheer and relaxing vibes. If we visit again, I’d love to return in September or October to enjoy boat rides and other activities without the summer crowds.
The view of Mount Vesuvius was a highlight, as it looms over the city and reminds you of its catastrophic eruption in 79 AD.
On the way: Pompeii & Vesuvius
Next on the list was Pompeii, one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites. Unfortunately, we were on a tight schedule, which made the experience feel less awe-inspiring than I remembered from my first visit 20 years ago. Having recently seen similar ruins in Sicily and Paestum, Pompeii felt less impressive this time around.
My advice? If you haven’t seen many ancient ruins, I would still recommend it, but a guide might be useful to bring the history to life. If you’ve already seen similar archeological sites, consider visiting Herculaneum instead. It’s smaller, better preserved, and less overwhelming.
Our day didn’t end there—we had tickets for the last time slot to hike Mount Vesuvius. A word of caution: don’t try to do Pompeii and Vesuvius on the same day—it’s just too much walking. A heads-up: book your parking ticket ahead of time, and allow an extra hour to park at the bottom and take the shuttle bus up. We didn’t realize this and ended up driving too far up the mountain. Thankfully, an attendant was kind enough to help us, but we had to park where we weren’t supposed to and hope for the best (no ticket so far—fingers crossed!).
The hike up was relatively short but steep, and while the view was slightly hazy, it was still worth it. Vesuvius was very different from Stromboli or Etna, offering a unique experience. We walked around half of the crater and took in the different viewpoints. If you take the last time slot, be mindful that they’ll start ushering you back shortly after.
Naples: A Taste of the City - 2 nights
After a long day, we arrived in Naples. At this point in our trip, we were feeling a bit “site-seeing fatigue.” Naples is a vibrant city with so much to see, but two nights didn’t do it justice. We began with a visit to the Duomo and the Treasury of San Gennaro—definitely worth the entry fee, as the audio guide explains the fascinating history behind the treasure.
Next, we visited the Cappella Sansevero, where we marveled at the incredible sculpture of the Veiled Christ. Make sure to book ahead—it’s very popular. Seeing the Veiled Christ in person was mesmerizing, we stayed 40 minutes! The details of the marble sculpture are so lifelike, it’s hard to believe it’s all carved from a single block.
We also spent a few hours at the Museo Archeologico for a deeper dive into the history of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Afterward, we indulged in some gluten-free and lactose-free sweets at Leopoldo Cafebar before heading back to our hotel to rest. . Dinner was delicious gluten-free pizza—Naples really knows how to do pizza, even for those with dietary restrictions!
Reggia di Caserta: A Royal Stop
Before heading to my grandmother's village, we made a detour to the Reggia di Caserta. This palace is enormous—think Versailles but on an even grander scale. We walked nearly 20,000 steps exploring the palace and its gardens. My biggest mistake was not taking the shuttle bus to the English Gardens; I underestimated how far away they were. By the time we got there, it had started raining, but the botanical section made the trek worth it. We ended our visit with the elegant apartments inside the palace, which are stunning. If you plan to visit, take your time or split it into two days, as there’s a lot to see.
Before heading to Rome
We made a stop at Villa d’Este in Tivoli and spent about an hour and a half exploring the villa and its gardens. Some fountains weren’t flowing because workers were patiently restoring them with chisels—a fascinating process to watch. Villa d’Este, a 16th-century masterpiece, is known for its terraced Italian Renaissance garden filled with impressive fountains and water features. It’s no surprise that it’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Rome: A Perfect End
Finally, we spent two nights in Rome, one of my favorite cities. Though we didn’t visit any major sites, we enjoyed walking around the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and various piazzas. The highlight was staying in a hotel between the Trevi Fountain and Piazza di Spagna, which was perfectly located for easy exploration. Rome has a timeless charm that always leaves me wanting more.
Final Thoughts on Campania & Lazio
Our journey from Campania to Lazio was filled with rich history, incredible flavors, and unforgettable views. From the ancient ruins of Paestum and Pompeii to the majestic Vesuvius and the vibrant streets of Naples and Rome, each stop brought something unique. Whether it’s a slice of buffalo mozzarella or a walk through centuries-old ruins, this region offers an experience like no other.
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