Exploring the Heel of Italy: A Road Trip Through Puglia and Basilicata

We set out to explore Puglia and Basilicata at the end of October and beginning of November, making for a truly immersive experience in Southern Italy.

Puglia: A Two-Week Adventure

We rented a large car in Rome and drove to Bari, where we picked up my brother-in-law at the train station. Many travel guides suggest that one night in Bari is enough, but in hindsight, I would have stayed longer. Bari was lively, full of people enjoying the evening atmosphere. We strolled through the charming streets, had an incredible dinner, and the next morning, we explored a bit more before heading toward our Airbnb near Polignano a Mare for three nights.

The coastline in this area is breathtaking. During our day trips, we visited Polignano a Mare but didn’t swim, as we lacked water shoes and weren’t keen on descending to the sea from our elevated vantage point. One evening, we enjoyed a fantastic gluten-free crêpe in Monopoli, which has a bustling piazza and a charming ambiance. Another highlight was la Grotta di Castellana, which, being close to Halloween, offered special performances that made the experience even more magical.

Alberobello and the Trulli Experience

Initially, we debated whether to stay in Alberobello, but ultimately, we chose an Airbnb nearby, allowing us to explore multiple towns from one location. Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is famous for its trulli, unique limestone houses with characteristic conical roofs. We visited in the afternoon, enjoyed a late lunch, and stayed until sunset, which offered a magical view.

Despite concerns about comfort, I wanted to experience sleeping in a trullo, so we found a traditional trulli Airbnb. While charming, they tend to be humid, have low ceilings, and offer spotty internet, making them slightly less comfortable for long stays. Knowing these drawbacks in advance helped manage expectations.

We also visited Locorotondo, a beautifully quaint white town, where we enjoyed a relaxing lunch while soaking in the architecture.

After visiting Locorotondo, we drove 35 minutes to Ostuni, known as ‘The White City,’ perched on a hill. This stunning town, with its whitewashed buildings, offers breathtaking views and a maze of charming alleys to explore. We wandered through its narrow streets, enjoyed a leisurely lunch, and soaked in the atmosphere. Although our visit was brief, we truly enjoyed Ostuni and would have stayed longer if we weren’t just passing through.

Lecce, Otranto, and the Southern Coast

We continued south to Lecce, staying for two nights. This university city has a vibrant energy, and although two nights felt brief, we made the most of our time exploring its historical center.

From Lecce, we drove to Torre Sant'Andrea, San Stefano, and eventually Otranto, where we stayed another two nights. By early November, most beach towns were deserted, making it difficult to find open restaurants—Google wasn’t always reliable in this regard. We loved Otranto, but parking near our hotel, Palazzo de Mori, was a challenge. We later learned that the hotel usually closes from late November to March.

Our goal was to drive the entire coastline, so we visited Santa Maria di Leuca, Italy’s southernmost point and home to its tallest lighthouse. In retrospect, we would have skipped this and headed straight to Gallipoli, where we stayed for two nights.

On the way, we stopped at Pescoluse, known as the "Maldives of Italy." While it boasts a long stretch of sandy beach, it didn’t quite live up to the hype for us, especially compared to Sardinia and Sicily’s crystal-clear waters. In Gallipoli, we explored the Ancient Greek fountain, the castle, and wished we could have seen the closed olive oil museum.

Basilicata: Matera, A Timeless Wonder

Leaving Puglia, we drove to Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Originally, we planned to stay only one night, as we had to drop my brother-in-law back at Bari’s train station. However, Matera’s breathtaking beauty and deep history captivated us so much that we drove to Bari and returned to Matera for another night.

We splurged on a hotel built into a cave, an unforgettable experience. Matera’s structures are carved from tufo, a blend of limestone and sandstone. Our hotel was dimly lit, with candles adding a romantic atmosphere. Breakfast was served in an old church, further adding to the unique charm.

Matera is vast, with numerous stairs and extensive walking required. My parents visited the following year, and my father suffered back pain from all the walking. A key tip: park your car in the newer part of Matera and take a shuttle to your hotel in the historic center. This will allow you to fully enjoy exploring the Sassi districts without exhaustion.

One of the highlights was visiting an ancient water cistern, an underground marvel that had been forgotten for years until rediscovered. The cistern stretches 50 meters and offers an incredible glimpse into the city's engineering ingenuity.

Matera is divided into two sections, and despite thinking we had seen it all, we discovered another side of the city after dropping off my brother-in-law. Before parking and returning to the old town, we viewed Matera from the opposite side of the ravine, offering a dramatic panoramic perspective of the rock formations and houses carved into the cliff face. Exploring this side of Matera felt like stepping into a prehistoric world, with cave-like dwellings reminiscent of the Flintstones. Seeing the city lights glow at blue hour made it even more magical. Only then did I realize that we had spent all our time on one side of the historic center and had never ventured the other way.

I left Matera feeling deeply moved, and my brother-in-law remarked that he would love to return with a significant other, as it is undoubtedly one of Italy’s most romantic cities.

Final Thoughts

Exploring Puglia and Basilicata was an unforgettable journey through charming towns, UNESCO sites, and stunning coastlines. From lively Bari to the trulli of Alberobello, the vibrant city of Lecce, the coastal beauty of Otranto and Gallipoli, and finally, the breathtaking caves of Matera, this trip showcased the best of Southern Italy’s heel.

Would I do it all the same way again? Probably not. I’d tweak a few stops and extend my stay in some places, but overall, it was an unforgettable experience. If you’re considering a road trip through Southern Italy, my advice is simple—just go!