8 Days in New Zealand’s South Island: Glaciers, Fjords & Fried GF food

After 2 months of exploring Oceania, our trip wrapped up with a breathtaking journey through New Zealand’s South Island — a land of towering peaks, glacier lakes, and some of the best gluten-free fried food we’ve ever had. Seriously. Too good. Maybe too much of it.

Here’s how our week unfolded, starting from our arrival in Queenstown.

🛬 Arriving from Perth (via Sydney)

We flew Virgin Australia from Perth with a layover in Sydney.

• ✅ Positives: They transferred our checked luggage automatically, and they didn’t weigh our slightly overweight carry-on.

• ❌ Negatives: The red-eye departure around midnight made it hard to sleep. We landed at 1:30 PM local time — that first day was basically a write-off.

  
  

  

We picked up our Polestar 2 rental car for the week — perfect for day trips around Queenstown and for the longer drive to Mount Cook.

🌧 Day 2 – Jet Lag & Spa Time

Still adjusting to the time zone, we took it easy. The weather was grey and rainy — perfect for a gym and spa day at our hotel. The dry sauna was the highlight — a cozy, deeply relaxing warm-up we didn't know we needed.

Queenstown is located across the lake.

🏞 Day 3 – Moke Lake & the Glenorchy Drive

We started with a chill walk around Moke Lake, but curiosity pulled us toward the Secret Viewpoint Trail. What was meant to be a gentle walk turned into a steep climb — and a rewarding one.

Next, we drove the scenic Lake Wakatipu road to Glenorchy, stopping at:

• Bennett’s Bluff Lookout – A quick 5-minute climb for a stellar photo.

• Isengard Lookout – Even if you’re not a Lord of the Rings fan, it’s a beautiful area. (Though, after Hobbiton and Mordor, why not complete the trilogy?)

  
  
  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

We got back to Queenstown at blue hour — the sky was glowing in soft pinks. The downtown felt busy after dark, but being winter, the vibe was more ski town than nightlife hub.

🛩 Day 4 – Fly-Cruise-Fly to Milford Sound

With a sunny forecast, we booked the Fly-Cruise-Fly experience with Glenorchy Air (after checking reviews on TripAdvisor, Reddit, and blogs).

Why not drive?

• Winter conditions can be unpredictable — icy roads, snow chains, and closures.

• It's 4+ hours each way. Add a 1h45m cruise, and that’s a loooong day.

  
  

Our Experience:

• Pickup at 11 AM, flight at 11:30 AM. Clouds on the way added drama to the views.

• The cruise was beautiful but cold. Top deck for photos, then inside for hot drinks.

• The return flight was even better — Simon got to sit in the cockpit and skies had cleared. Seeing the Z-shape of Lake Wakatipu from above was a highlight.

  
  

⛏ Day 5 – Arrowtown + Fried Food Frenzy

We visited Arrowtown, walking through the historic Chinese Settlement (quickly — it was freezing!) and wandered the charming main street. We popped into the Lakes District Museum (NZ$14) and were pleasantly surprised — it was packed with artifacts and creative kid-friendly touches (like a My Little Pony hidden in the horseshoe exhibit).

Let’s talk gluten-free fried food.

This day was the start of a fried food marathon:

• Erik’s Fish & Chips – 100% gluten-free. Huge calamari, monkfish, chicken tenders, fries, and even deep-fried cinnamon kiwi (sour-sweet perfection).

• Patagonia Chocolates – Even in winter, we couldn’t resist the chocolate sorbet.

And an absolute must-mention:

• Monster Chicken – Incredible gluten-free popcorn chicken. We ordered a bunch to pack for our road trip to Mount Cook. Totally worth it.

  
  

🚗 Day 6 – Scenic Drive to Mount Cook

Armed with our fried chicken and fully charged car, we headed out via the Crown Range Road — the highest main road in NZ at 1,076m. We checked snow cams before leaving (MetService traffic cam) — always a smart winter move.

Stops included:

• Wanaka Tree – Yes, it’s “just a tree,” but still iconic.

• A long grocery run for supplies (Mount Cook = limited food options).

• A not-so-exciting Lindis Pass, but different geology kept things interesting.

  
  

We arrived in Twizel around 6 PM, charged the car again, then took the dark, curvy road to The Hermitage Hotel. Slightly underwhelming drive… but that would change.

🏔 Day 7 – Hiking in Mount Cook National Park

Waking up, opening the curtains, and seeing those snow-capped mountains? Magical.

We did two hikes:

1. Hooker Valley Track

Partially closed, but still amazing. A well-maintained trail with one suspension bridge, 35 minutes to big views.

2. Tasman Glacier View Track

We started left, climbing stairs up to the high viewpoint — amazing panorama and worth the burn. Then we continued to the jetty at lake level — fun, but the views from up top win. A great combo if you have time for both.

🍫 Day 8 – Final Day & Foodie Farewell

Time to head back! We stopped at Peters Lookout and charged the car again in Twizel, where — surprise! — the café had gluten-free, vegan bliss balls and muffins.

That evening was our first proper downtown Queenstown night. We made it count:

• Erik’s (again) – This time: vegan cheese + gravy poutine.

• Patagonia (again) – A final scoop of chocolate and raspberry sorbet.

🏂 Skiing? Nah, Not This Time

We didn’t ski — British Columbia has better terrain, and we’ve done our share of slopes. But many travelers had skis or boards in tow. If you’re into it, Queenstown is definitely a winter base for skiing.

✈ Wrapping It Up

We flew from Queenstown to Auckland for one last night before heading home — full of gratitude, photos, and fried food.

We were so impressed by:

• The jaw-dropping nature

• The easy-to-access hikes

• The gluten-free food scene (seriously!)

• The chill winter vibes without the crowds

  
  

We also discovered the Southern Alps — named by James Cook because they reminded him of the European Alps. For us, they reminded us of British Columbia. But here, you don’t need to hike 4 hours to get that wow view.

Quick Tips

• ✅ Fly-Cruise-Fly to Milford Sound = worth it in winter.

• 🥾 Short hikes, big views – especially in Mount Cook.

• 🍗 Gluten-free food lovers – Queenstown is your heaven.

• ⚡ EV drivers – plan your charges around meal stops.

• ❄ Winter travel – check webcams daily, and embrace the quiet.

Had you forgotten about the sheep in NZ? I had.