Hawaii Part 1 & 2- Big Island Adventure: Volcanoes, Stargazing, and Epic Hikes & Oahu

February 2023 – Two Weeks in Hawaii

From Montreal, we flew to Vancouver and stayed for a week before heading to Maui, Hawaii. My goal was to visit four islands, but in hindsight, the timeline was too short—I wouldn’t recommend following in my footsteps! However, knowing we might never return, we made the most of it. To ease the transition after our long journey, we spent our first night in Maui near the airport before flying to Big Island the next day. This helped with jet lag and adjusting to the weather.

We split our time on Big Island into two parts: flying into Hilo for two nights and then flying out of Kona after another two nights.

Hilo: The Rainiest City in the U.S.

We began our adventure in Hilo, which receives an average of 147.5 inches of rain per year—so a rain jacket is essential! Despite the wet weather, we explored and hiked throughout the area. The highlight of our time in Hilo was visiting Kīlauea, the youngest and most active volcano on the island of Hawaiʻi, and one of the most active in the world. Walking across a volcanic crater was surreal, and we hiked to a viewpoint where we could see lava flowing from a distance—binoculars or a good camera are a must! I think my fascination with volcanoes began here in Hawaii.

Inside the park, we often spotted signs warning about Nene, the Hawaiian goose, which is endemic to the islands and protected.

Nene crossing - Nene Xing

Two Hikes on the Way to Kona

On our drive from Hilo to Kona, we made two scenic hiking stops:

1. Donkey Trail – A short downhill hike leading to a beautiful bay.

2. Akaka Falls – A breathtaking waterfall that is twice the height of Niagara Falls. It was an easy, well-maintained walk and absolutely worth the visit.

Kona: Manta Rays & Mauna Kea

Once in Kona, we went straight to the harbor for a Manta Ray night snorkel tour. Would I recommend it? I’m torn. The ocean was rough that night, and several people on the boat got seasick. While we did see dolphins on the way and enjoyed a beautiful sunset, the mantas were scarce—we spent 45 minutes in the water and only saw two small ones. Holding onto PVC pipes attached to a paddleboard, with legs supported by pool noodles, was exhausting. The crew handed us a sea urchin to hold—likely to keep us entertained since the mantas weren’t showing up. After 45 minutes, climbing back onto the boat was tough, and the smell of pineapple and chocolate cookies only worsened my nausea. I had mixed feelings about this experience—I might have been disappointed if we skipped it, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it either.

The next day, we drove to Mauna Kea, a dormant shield volcano that, if measured from its base under the ocean, is technically the tallest mountain in the world. To reach the summit, you need a 4x4 vehicle, and many rental companies don’t allow the drive. At the visitor center (9,200 ft above sea level), we acclimatized before attempting to go further, but the summit road was closed due to high winds and snow. Instead, we hiked the Sunset Trail, a short 1.6-km out-and-back trail with stunning views. As night fell, we stayed for stargazing despite the freezing temperatures. We weren’t well-prepared for the cold, but the experience was absolutely worth it.

Chasing Lava at Night

Determined to see lava at night, we drove 1.5 hours back to Kīlauea Volcano. Despite rain and fog, we went for it—and I’m so glad we did! The glowing lava was incredibly bright, bubbling up from the earth. It was a life-changing sight. Back at the car, we peeled off our soaked jeans and drove back to Kona, reliving the incredible experience the entire way.

Pro Tips:

• Bring a towel and a change of clothes when hiking in the rain.

• An umbrella would have been useful!

• For Mauna Kea, pack warm clothes—a hat, gloves, and more than just a rain jacket. The temperature drops drastically at high elevation.

Final thoughts

Big Island was packed with adventure. We drove long hours, hiked multiple trails, and barely had time to relax. Still, I’m grateful we got to stargaze, walk on a crater, and see lava in action.

Part 2: Kona to Honolulu

The next day, we left Kona for Honolulu and spent two nights at Waikiki Beach. This wasn’t really our vibe—lots of tourists and a visible homelessness crisis. However, it was perfect for relaxing at the pool and beach. The highlight? Watching a breathtaking Waikiki sunset.